The best traffic-free bike rides around Pont-Saint-Martin

Erratic boulder of the Balteo glacier

The Castello di Suzey stands on an inaccessible rocky spur, in a position that in the 14th century guaranteed absolute control over the transit of the Lys valley. The structure is a classic example of a medieval enclosure castle, dominated by a massive quadrangular tower and surrounded by the remains of a fortified village now swallowed by vegetation. This stronghold was the headquarters of the lords of Suzey, a branch of the Vallaise known for their bellicose nature and independence from central powers. A famous anecdote concerns the family's determination to defend their privileges: it is said that the lords of Suzey imposed such severe transit taxes that they sparked fierce disputes with merchants and neighboring communities, turning the castle into a sort of armed customs post. A local legend also tells that the castle was connected to the other Vallaise properties in Perloz via a network of secret passages dug directly into the rock, used to move troops and riches away from prying eyes during sieges. Another popular tale describes the castle's end as a dramatic event: a devastating fire, which broke out during an enemy attack, would have marked the definitive abandonment of the structure.

The stone bridge of Lillianes, completed in 1733, represents a hydraulic work of exceptional value for the Lys Valley, being the only historic bridge in the region structured on four round arches. The choice of this configuration, supported by robust piers equipped with cut-water spurs, was dictated by the need to span a section of the Lys stream particularly subject to violent floods. The roadway, made with a characteristic donkey-back shape in local stone, hosts a votive shrine dedicated to Saint Roch in the center, historically placed to protect travelers against pestilences. A relevant anecdote concerns the complex financing of the work: the local community, in order not to depend exclusively on central subsidies, chose to heavily tax themselves through the "taglioni" system, a form of mandatory contribution based on land ownership. It is said that the families of the village contributed not only with money but also by providing labor and materials, as the bridge was considered vital for the economy linked to the chestnut trade and transhumance. Another curious detail concerns its incredible resistance: during past floods, while other wooden or lighter structures were swept away, the bridge of Lillianes remained intact, consolidating its fame as an indestructible monument and a symbol of unity for the entire valley population.

The historic center of Perloz constitutes an architectural nucleus of considerable interest for understanding the social and political dynamics of the lower Aosta Valley. The heart of the settlement is represented by the Casaforte Vallaise, a 14th-century quadrangular structure that served as the administrative and judicial center for the noble family of the same name. The building preserves medieval construction elements, including the coat of arms carved on the portals, a testament to the exercise of jurisdictional power over the territory. A short distance away stands the parish church of San Salvatore, characterized by a facade entirely frescoed with a representation of the Last Judgment dating back to the 17th century, a work that served as a tool for religious instruction for the local population. The monumental route continues with the Museum of the Resistance, housed in premises that recall the historical memory of the "Brigata Lys". Here, documents and artifacts related to the events of 1944 are preserved, when the village became a fundamental operational center for the partisan formations in the area. Walking through the narrow stone streets, one also notices the presence of numerous stone fountains and community ovens, symbols of the collective management of rural resources. This stratification of different eras, from medieval feudalism to contemporary history, makes the center of Perloz a relevant technical and cultural stop for those crossing the slopes of the Lys valley.

a nice gully to learn how to exploit the curves

Lake Alice Superiore is a little jewel, on clear winter days the Alps are reflected in its waters...

After a long climb you arrive at this plateau with a view of Monterosa, where a moment of respite is a godsend...

After crossing Vialfrè along via Roma and via Borghetto, after a trail that runs alongside a fence you find yourself... in a meadow! Luckily, a providential sign guides you, to the left, to the start of the erratic boulders trail, other signs, to follow, show the right path first along an asphalt road, finally, with another left turn at a hairpin bend, back on the right path. Here begins a nice flowing stretch, never difficult (S2 max), but not at all trivial, because the ground, almost always pebbly, requires constant attention when driving. The trail is not critical, in the sense that, even "skipping" some deviations, you still find yourself on other paths almost parallel to the one I took. In the end, all the paths converge almost in the same point... in front of the highway to Aosta: following the trail, other nice paths lead to Villate.