The best city hikes and walks in Abruzzo

Historical tidbit: the pope who said 'no' The pontificate of Pope Celestine V lasted only five months. The simple hermit did not feel at all at home amidst the political intrigues and corruption of Rome. That is why he made a decision that was unprecedented at the time: he voluntarily resigned from his office to return to his humble life in the mountains. He thus became the first pope in history to abdicate of his own accord. After his death, his body was interred in the Basilica of Collemaggio. His impressive crystal mausoleum can still be admired there today. A special link with Pope Benedict XVI After the severe earthquake that struck L'Aquila in 2009, Pope Benedict XVI visited the heavily damaged basilica. At the tomb of Celestine V, he silently laid down his own pallium, the woolen shoulder band he had received at his papal inauguration. At that moment, it seemed like a subdued tribute to his predecessor. Only four years later did this gesture take on a deeper meaning. In 2013, Benedict XVI himself voluntarily resigned as pope, the first since the late Middle Ages. His symbolic tribute to Celestine V proved, in retrospect, to be a remarkable harbinger of his own historic decision. Thus, centuries after Celestine V's abdication, the Basilica of Collemaggio once again closed a special chapter in papal history.

The Basilica of Santa Maria di Collemaggio is undoubtedly the architectural and spiritual jewel of L'Aquila. Located at the end of an impressive green lawn just outside the city walls, this 13th-century church combines a unique Abruzzian Romanesque-Gothic style with a history that forever changed the Catholic Church. The history of the basilica is closely linked to Pietro da Morrone, a devout hermit who had retreated to the remote mountains of Abruzzo. According to tradition, the Virgin Mary appeared to him with the instruction to build a church on the hill of Collemaggio. Construction began in 1287. A few years later, in 1294, the Church found itself in a deep crisis. After the death of the pope, the cardinals had failed to elect a successor for more than two years. Finally, they appointed the simple hermit Pietro as a compromise. To everyone's surprise, he accepted the choice and was crowned Pope Celestine V in this basilica – and not in Rome. Shortly after his coronation, Celestine V issued the "Bulla del Perdono", a papal bull that granted believers full forgiveness of their sins if, with sincere repentance, they passed through the Holy Door (Porta Santa) of the basilica on August 28 or 29. This created the very first Holy Year or Jubilee in the history of the Catholic Church, six years before Rome introduced its own official jubilee. This special tradition, known as "La Perdonanza Celestiniana", is still celebrated every year and has been recognized as intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO.

In L'Aquila, a rich medieval past effortlessly merges with admirable modern resilience. The proud capital of Abruzzo rises in full glory and is best discovered on foot. Wandering through the atmospheric streets, you'll encounter one architectural treasure after another. For example, start at the iconic Fontana delle 99 Cannelle, where 99 mystical stone masks continuously spout water. Climbing further up, you'll reach the massive 16th-century Forte Spagnolo. From this impressive fortress, you can enjoy a sweeping view of the rugged, often snow-capped peaks of the Gran Sasso massif. The city's rich history is also palpable in the many beautifully restored palazzi and churches. For instance, the Basilica di San Bernardino overwhelms every visitor with a breathtaking baroque ceiling adorned with gold leaf. After all the cultural immersion, lively squares like Piazza del Duomo invite you for a well-deserved break. It's the perfect place to enjoy the local cuisine and a good glass of Abruzzese wine at an outdoor cafe. As a grand finale, the Basilica di Santa Maria di Collemaggio should not be missed. This striking, pink-and-white checkered church houses a true world first: the very first Holy Door in the world. Thanks to the central, free parking facilities just outside the city walls, this compact art city is the ideal destination for a carefree and inspiring cultural walking holiday.

Place where young and old can experience adventures together.

The monumental Scalinata di San Bernardino in L'Aquila is one of the most characteristic and photogenic urban elements of the city. This wide, stately staircase connects the lower Via Fortebraccio with the higher Piazza di San Bernardino. Origin and architecture (16th century) Simultaneous construction: the staircase was built in the 16th century, at the same time as the Renaissance facade of the Basilica di San Bernardino (designed by architect Cola dell'Amatrice between 1525 and 1542). It served as the perfect extension of the religious complex. Urban planning purpose: the staircase had two functions. Practically, it was intended to connect the lower districts around the city walls with the centre. Aesthetically, it created a theatrical and baroque visual axis; pilgrims coming from below saw the monumental church facade slowly tower above them. Imposing dimensions: The staircase is no less than 30 metres wide and 68 metres long. The steps were deliberately designed to be very low and deep, so that large groups of worshippers and processions could comfortably ascend the slope. Striking features and details. The watchtowers: at the beginning (bottom) and end (top) of the staircase are a total of four small, robust turrets (torrette) that flank the staircase and give it a slightly military or monumental character. The edicolae: along the sides of the staircase are three stone niches or chapels (edicole) per side. These historically served during religious festivals and processions.

The Forte Spagnolo (also known as Castello Cinquecentesco) is one of the most impressive 16th-century military strongholds in Central and Southern Italy. Although it is a defensive work, its true historical significance lies in the fact that it was never built to protect the city, but rather to suppress it. Once the Spanish threat subsided over time, the complex successively served as the residence of the Spanish governor, barracks for French troops in the 19th century, and headquarters for the German occupiers during World War II. In 1902 it was officially declared a national monument. Shortly after World War II, it became the home of the Museo Nazionale d'Abruzzo (MuNDA). Since the devastating earthquake of 2009, the fort has been undergoing a lengthy and complex restoration, but it remains one of the most impressive symbols of the city when viewed from the outside.

Parco del Castello – L'Aquila's green oasis Fancy escaping the hustle and bustle? Then be sure to take a walk through Parco del Castello, L'Aquila's largest city park. The park surrounds the impressive 16th-century Forte Spagnolo and is the perfect place to combine nature, history, and beautiful views. Follow the path through the former, dry castle moat and admire the impressive fortress walls up close. Thanks to the shady and flat paths, this is a lovely place to walk or rest for a while. From the north side of the park, you also have a magnificent view of the rugged Gran Sasso massif. Particularly special: the fort houses the almost completely intact skeleton of a prehistoric mammoth, discovered in 1954 in the vicinity of L'Aquila. If only for that reason, a visit to this park is more than worth it.

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II – the historic main street of L'Aquila Corso Vittorio Emanuele II has been the most important street in L'Aquila since the Middle Ages. Originally, it was called Strada del Corso, with 'corso' literally meaning 'racecourse'. This is where the famous Palio horse races, festive parades, and religious processions once took place. Together with Corso Principe Umberto, this street forms the heart of the city, according to the classic Roman street plan with a north-south axis (Cardo) and an east-west axis (Decumanus). Their intersection is known as Quattro Cantoni – the Four Corners. As you walk, take a good look at the street itself. The southern part is wide and stately, with elegant arcades, while the northern part is strikingly narrow. This is no accident: in the early 20th century, noble families refused to give up their palaces for a widening, and moreover, the budget ran out. Thanks to that failed expansion, this part of the Corso has retained its atmospheric, medieval character.