The best cycling routes around Fossa

Historical tidbit: the pope who said 'no' The pontificate of Pope Celestine V lasted only five months. The simple hermit did not feel at all at home amidst the political intrigues and corruption of Rome. That is why he made a decision that was unprecedented at the time: he voluntarily resigned from his office to return to his humble life in the mountains. He thus became the first pope in history to abdicate of his own accord. After his death, his body was interred in the Basilica of Collemaggio. His impressive crystal mausoleum can still be admired there today. A special link with Pope Benedict XVI After the severe earthquake that struck L'Aquila in 2009, Pope Benedict XVI visited the heavily damaged basilica. At the tomb of Celestine V, he silently laid down his own pallium, the woolen shoulder band he had received at his papal inauguration. At that moment, it seemed like a subdued tribute to his predecessor. Only four years later did this gesture take on a deeper meaning. In 2013, Benedict XVI himself voluntarily resigned as pope, the first since the late Middle Ages. His symbolic tribute to Celestine V proved, in retrospect, to be a remarkable harbinger of his own historic decision. Thus, centuries after Celestine V's abdication, the Basilica of Collemaggio once again closed a special chapter in papal history.

The Basilica of Santa Maria di Collemaggio is undoubtedly the architectural and spiritual jewel of L'Aquila. Located at the end of an impressive green lawn just outside the city walls, this 13th-century church combines a unique Abruzzian Romanesque-Gothic style with a history that forever changed the Catholic Church. The history of the basilica is closely linked to Pietro da Morrone, a devout hermit who had retreated to the remote mountains of Abruzzo. According to tradition, the Virgin Mary appeared to him with the instruction to build a church on the hill of Collemaggio. Construction began in 1287. A few years later, in 1294, the Church found itself in a deep crisis. After the death of the pope, the cardinals had failed to elect a successor for more than two years. Finally, they appointed the simple hermit Pietro as a compromise. To everyone's surprise, he accepted the choice and was crowned Pope Celestine V in this basilica – and not in Rome. Shortly after his coronation, Celestine V issued the "Bulla del Perdono", a papal bull that granted believers full forgiveness of their sins if, with sincere repentance, they passed through the Holy Door (Porta Santa) of the basilica on August 28 or 29. This created the very first Holy Year or Jubilee in the history of the Catholic Church, six years before Rome introduced its own official jubilee. This special tradition, known as "La Perdonanza Celestiniana", is still celebrated every year and has been recognized as intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO.

In L'Aquila, a rich medieval past effortlessly merges with admirable modern resilience. The proud capital of Abruzzo rises in full glory and is best discovered on foot. Wandering through the atmospheric streets, you'll encounter one architectural treasure after another. For example, start at the iconic Fontana delle 99 Cannelle, where 99 mystical stone masks continuously spout water. Climbing further up, you'll reach the massive 16th-century Forte Spagnolo. From this impressive fortress, you can enjoy a sweeping view of the rugged, often snow-capped peaks of the Gran Sasso massif. The city's rich history is also palpable in the many beautifully restored palazzi and churches. For instance, the Basilica di San Bernardino overwhelms every visitor with a breathtaking baroque ceiling adorned with gold leaf. After all the cultural immersion, lively squares like Piazza del Duomo invite you for a well-deserved break. It's the perfect place to enjoy the local cuisine and a good glass of Abruzzese wine at an outdoor cafe. As a grand finale, the Basilica di Santa Maria di Collemaggio should not be missed. This striking, pink-and-white checkered church houses a true world first: the very first Holy Door in the world. Thanks to the central, free parking facilities just outside the city walls, this compact art city is the ideal destination for a carefree and inspiring cultural walking holiday.

The monumental Scalinata di San Bernardino in L'Aquila is one of the most characteristic and photogenic urban elements of the city. This wide, stately staircase connects the lower Via Fortebraccio with the higher Piazza di San Bernardino. Origin and architecture (16th century) Simultaneous construction: the staircase was built in the 16th century, at the same time as the Renaissance facade of the Basilica di San Bernardino (designed by architect Cola dell'Amatrice between 1525 and 1542). It served as the perfect extension of the religious complex. Urban planning purpose: the staircase had two functions. Practically, it was intended to connect the lower districts around the city walls with the centre. Aesthetically, it created a theatrical and baroque visual axis; pilgrims coming from below saw the monumental church facade slowly tower above them. Imposing dimensions: The staircase is no less than 30 metres wide and 68 metres long. The steps were deliberately designed to be very low and deep, so that large groups of worshippers and processions could comfortably ascend the slope. Striking features and details. The watchtowers: at the beginning (bottom) and end (top) of the staircase are a total of four small, robust turrets (torrette) that flank the staircase and give it a slightly military or monumental character. The edicolae: along the sides of the staircase are three stone niches or chapels (edicole) per side. These historically served during religious festivals and processions.

Fontana Luminosa – the icon of L'Aquila The Fontana Luminosa is one of L'Aquila's most famous sights and a beloved photo stop. This monumental fountain, designed in 1934 by local sculptor Nicola D'Antino, stands in Piazza Battaglione Alpini. The artwork depicts two imposing bronze female figures who together carry a traditional Abruzzese water basin (conca), from which the water flows. Especially when the fountain is atmospherically illuminated in the evening, it truly lives up to its name – Luminous Fountain. A beautiful place to pause and admire one of L'Aquila's iconic symbols up close.

Basilica di San Bernardino – a Renaissance pearl of L’Aquila The Basilica di San Bernardino is one of the most beautiful Renaissance monuments in Abruzzo and tells the story of faith, art, and resilience. The impressive facade, designed by Cola dell'Amatrice, is inspired by classical Greek and Roman architecture. The three layers show the different styles: Doric at the bottom, Ionic above it, and Corinthian at the top. On the facade and in the interior, the golden IHS monogram shines with sunbeams, a symbol that Bernardino of Siena used during his sermons to reconcile rival families. Inside is the beautiful marble mausoleum of Saint Bernardino, created by Silvestro dell'Aquila. After his death in 1444, L’Aquila grew into an important pilgrimage site around his tomb. The basilica also symbolizes the city's reconstruction. The 2009 earthquake caused severe damage, including the collapse of part of the bell tower. After a six-year restoration, the church was reopened in 2015 and shines again as one of L’Aquila's major attractions.

Post station on the route of the Tratturo Magno. The remains of the customs house, the theatre and a temple are still visible.

It will be my next destination