The best city hikes and walks in the Lesser Caucasus

Batumi, with its 123,000 inhabitants, is Georgia's third-largest city after Tbilisi and Kutaisi. It is also the capital of the autonomous republic of Adjara. The local inhabitants, the Ajars, are ethnically and linguistically the same as Georgians, but they mostly profess Islam. Batumi lies on the coast of the Black Sea, has a warm subtropical climate, and citrus fruits and tea are grown in its surroundings. Above all, however, it is a major centre for summer holidays.

Beautiful figures on the promenade

Very nice promenade

Such a beautiful bridge, but unfortunately full of vendors offering boat tours and photos.

Anyone strolling along the waterfront in Batumi will at some point encounter two steel figures moving slowly – toward each other, through each other, and away from each other. Their names are Ali and Nino. And although they consist of nothing but horizontally layered steel ribs, they tell one of the most touching stories this city has to offer. The sculpture was created in 2010 by the Georgian artists Tamar Kvesitadze and Paata Sanaia and is based on the novel of the same name by Kurban Said. It is about an impossible love: He, a Muslim Azeri from Baku. She, a Georgian Christian from Tbilisi. Between them: history, religion, war. And yet also closeness, tenderness – and the attempt to build bridges. That is precisely what this sculpture does: It brings the two together – and then separates them again, in an endless mechanical cycle. The spectacle lasts around ten minutes, but in motion, it feels like an entire film. A visit at dusk is particularly impressive: the sculpture then glows in changing colors, while behind it the Black Sea slowly disappears into the darkness.

In the middle of Batumi's waterfront promenade, a structure stretches into the sky, oscillating somewhere between a space radar, a DNA double helix, and an LED art object: the Alphabet Tower. Anyone approaching the 130-meter-high steel giant must first orient themselves – and perhaps ask themselves: Is this art, science, or an oversized jumble of letters? The tower is indeed a homage to the Georgian alphabet – one of the oldest and most independent writing systems in the world. The 33 illuminated letters spiral around the tower's skeleton, reminiscent of a DNA helix. A clear message: language and identity are inextricably linked. The fact that this message is presented here in neon and glass is typical of Batumi – a place that likes to make everything a bit more colorful, garish, and spectacular. At the top of the tower is a glass sphere with an observation deck and – at least temporarily – a café. The elevator takes visitors comfortably to the top, but service is not guaranteed. Those who dare to climb (and are lucky with the opening times) will be rewarded with a magnificent panoramic view of the Black Sea coast, the promenade and the playful urban chaos of the city.

It stands in the heart of Batumi: the Neptune Fountain. Shining golden, surrounded by mermaids and dolphins, the Roman sea god poses above Teatralnaya Square as if he had been imported straight from Bologna – which isn't so far-fetched, as the Georgian version is a direct homage to the Italian original. Only locals know that a monument to the Georgian writer Chavchavadze once stood here – and not everyone is happy with the maritime replacement. But tourists, walkers, and photographers love the setting: by day, in front of the theater facade and prefabricated building, in the evening, in the warm glow of the lanterns, when the square becomes a stage. Convenient: The fountain is located in the heart of the city, easily accessible on foot, and embedded in a pleasant pedestrian area. Surrounding it are cafés, park benches, plane trees – and with a bit of luck, a street musician providing musical accompaniment to the scenery. Ideal as a stopover on a city stroll. If you like, come back in the evening – that’s when Neptune sparkles particularly beautifully.

Anyone entering Europe Square finds themselves in the middle of a postcard scene. Playful facades, a striking clock tower, water features, and, in the center, a stone column with a golden Medea high above – this is Batumi in miniature: dramatic, meticulously detailed, and somehow proud. This is the city's tourist heart. The square is surrounded by cafés, hotels, and historic buildings, including the fairytale Astronomical Tower with its green brick spires. During the day, it's bustling with people, children play in the fountain, tour groups gather beneath the statue, and in the evening, everything lights up in bright colors – a bit of Las Vegas, a bit of Belle Époque. Those seeking peace and quiet should come in the early morning. Those wanting to people-watch should stay until the evening. If you're hungry, take a walk around the square – everything from fast food to delicatessen is available.