The best road cycling routes around Vale Da Mula

Castelo Rodrigo holds millennia of history, from Paleolithic and Roman remains to the Muslim presence in the castle. Conquered and reconquered between the 12th and 13th centuries, it became a town and municipality under King Alfonso IX of León and passed definitively to Portugal in 1297, when King Dinis rebuilt and repopulated the castle. Marked by wars, charters, and restorations, it welcomed pilgrims on their way to Santiago and remains today one of the twelve Historic Villages of Portugal.

At the entrance to Castelo Rodrigo, the Monastery of Santa Maria de Aguiar rises among chestnut trees, founded in 1174 by King Afonso Henriques and handed over to the Cistercian Order. From the sober church to the monks' quarters and the guesthouse loggia with its 1704 coat of arms, everything testifies to centuries of faith and hospitality for pilgrims to Santiago. Despite the damage caused by the French invasions and its abandonment in 1834, the monastery's former beauty remains intact.

Malpartida stands serenely on the border plain, preserving in its main church, with its romantic bell tower, the most visible trace of its memory. But the past here goes far beyond the stones: from the cave tombs of the Nave de Mouros to the ancient watchtower of the Restoration, from the echoes of the Castilian sack of 1762 to the fierce battle against the French in 1808. Even generals left their mark; Ney established his headquarters here, and Brenier boldly escaped the siege of Almeida. Malpartida is, therefore, a land where every stone tells of battles, losses, and exploits.

Almeida stands on the plateau like a table set for history: "Al-Mêda" was the name given to it by the Arabs. Previously, it had been a Lusitanian, Roman, and then Christian fort, conquered in 1190 and definitively Portuguese in 1297. Around the medieval castle grew the town, still marked by the Puerta do Sol. After the Restoration, the town transformed into a veritable war machine: the six-pointed star-shaped fortress, with bastions, ravelins, and underground galleries that served as both shelter and prison. It was the scene of decisive battles, devastated by the explosion of 1810 and contested in the liberal wars, always rising from the ruins.

Castelo Rodrigo is a village with a medieval soul, where time has left its deep marks: walls, stone streets and remains of an ancient community of New Christians. Surrounded by magnificent landscapes, from the Douro International Natural Park to the Côa Valley, passing through the Serra da Marofa and the Faia Brava Reserve, this village is an invitation to contemplation and to taste. Here, history is served at the table: Marofa lamb, octopus in migas or rice are flavors that count as much as the books.

Vale da Mula lies in a valley between the Aguiar and Tourões rivers, right next to the Spanish border. The current name comes from the adaptation of the Castilian “Vale de la Mula”, which was used until recently. During the Restoration War, this discreet place played a prominent role and it was also from here that the Portuguese offensive towards Guardão began, the cradle of Spanish attacks on neighbouring lands.

The Almeida Fort, originally founded as a castle in the 12th century, is one of the best-preserved fortifications in Portugal. It played an important role throughout its history, particularly during the Napoleonic Wars. It was heavily damaged during the Siege of Almeida in 1810 but was later rebuilt. The star fort is known for its bastions and deep moats, which were once intended to provide protection against invaders.

We stopped there for a break during our 2023 Lisbon-Porto-Madrid tour. The historic city with its mighty walls impressed us greatly. Definitely worth a trip. 👌