The best cycling routes around Athies-Sous-Laon

The charming Romanesque chapel of the Templars is located in the museum park. The Order of the Temple was founded in 1128 and the bishop of Laon favored their installation in the city on land belonging to the king of France, located south of the canons' enclosure. The Saint-Jean-Baptiste chapel was erected around 1140: the octagon and the choir are the oldest parts; the porch was added a few decades later.

This austere church, contemporary with the cathedral, is a fine example of 12th-century monastic architecture. With its two historiated side tympana, the façade is later, dating from around 1270. Inside, the 17th- and 18th-century woodwork and some elements of medieval funerary sculpture are noteworthy.

An Art Deco church, particularly representative of the revival of sacred art in the 1920s. A masterpiece among the churches of the Reconstruction period, visitors will be captivated by the frescoes, mosaics, stained-glass windows and superb bell tower supported by angels. Built between 1928 and 1932 under the direction of architect Paul-Albert Müller, the church is both modern and back to basics. The use of reinforced concrete, a material already used by some architects before the war, is combined with early Christian symbols such as the fish or the pelican

For its opening hours, the cathedral is open every day from 8:30 am to 6:30 pm and can be visited free, however, there is an audioguided tour for 7 €

The present Notre-Dame de Laon cathedral is the heir to an ancient building, built under the Carolingians and destroyed during the communal insurrection of 1112. Completed around 1235, the cathedral underwent a major restoration in the 19th century, and again in the 2000s. Note that since September 3, 2021, the building has been home to a “Blueberry of Memory” (a work of art by artist Matt Seaward) offered by the Bishop of Durham (UK) in memory of the soldiers who fell in the First World War.

Here, visitors will find an early masterpiece of Gothic architecture, a style often found in this part of France – Chartres and Reims, for example, attract enthusiastic international visitors and are far more famous than Laon. In the following 13th century, many Gothic churches were built, not only in their country of origin, France, but also beyond the country's borders, where this skyward-striving, light-filled architectural style was now in great demand for new churches (for example, the laying of the foundation stone for Cologne Cathedral in 1248).

On the eastern edge of the Chemin des Dames plateau lies the Ferme d’Hurtebise, a place that played a crucial role during both the Napoleonic Wars and the First World War. In 1814, it was the scene of the Battle of Craonne, and exactly a century later it again became a strategic junction in the struggle between French and German troops. From September 1914 onwards, fierce fighting took place here. The farm overlooked the Ailette and Aisne valleys, making it a fiercely contested observation post. French units, including Zouaves and the 12th and 49th Infantry Regiments, tried to hold or retake the farm, often with heavy losses. The family that owned the farm sheltered in the cellar for days while the building was under fire. After months of fighting and bombardment, the farm was reduced to ruins, crisscrossed by trenches. Today the site is a symbol of resistance and sacrifice, and is part of the Chemin des Dames memorial landscape.

Louis Astoul: Along the D18 on the Chemin des Dames, between Cerny-en-Laonnois and the Caverne du Dragon, stands a modest monument to Louis Astoul, a young French second lieutenant in the 70th regiment of tirailleurs sénégalais. He was killed on 16 April 1917, on the first day of the disastrous Nivelle Offensive, at the age of just 24. The monument honours not only him, but also his comrades – mostly colonial soldiers from West Africa – who gave their lives in this region in the hope of a breakthrough that never came. Astoul was reported missing near the village of Paissy, and his body was never found. Today, this memorial recalls the often forgotten role of colonial troops in the Great War, and the personal drama behind the great history.